Just got my OnePlus 2 today and took a sec tonight to check out a suspicious set of connectors on the Styleswap cover.
We have a VERY easy way to add hardware Buttons and Sensors to the Phone.
On the OnePlus 2 StyleSwap cover connectors :
That connector is just a SMALL sticker with a single thin-film resistor in it.
The Bamboo cover has a 22.1k ohm resistor.
It means that ONE pin supplies the voltage (Lower Pin) while the other is a weak pulldown GND.
It shows the Voltage running across those two pins is 2V. This explains the relatively high values chosen for the resistor as it is already a weak pull and easily poll-able. I do not like however, that this pin set is set to 2V constantly in my limited testing that means a weak power drain and something to add noise to a system. At least its not adding more ground noise... a problem which plagued the ONEPLUS ONE which had weak starr-ed ground and virtually no smoothing capacitance or ground loop isolators which caused the most problems with AUDIO. The ground noise was beyod fixable for the Qualcomm DSP to be able to compensate for in something like a high end IEM.
GIVEN THIS
There is no possible way to connect NFC to the back plate UNLESS they devellop their own chips/protocol that require no ground reference. Also most NFC receiver chips use SPI or I2C connection interfaces as the communication clock frequency is important No ground reference shared... bad clocks.
So, if you are Chinese or get the Chinese version, All you need is some copper tape and a 20k ohm thin film resistor and you can have the Bamboo style theme...Cost is $0.01 maybe...plus shipping.
Then I found this in like 2 seconds .
Here is the code (complete with ASCII art schematic!) :
Its even interrupt driven! So no need to reboot the phone to get new data streams or be able to change dynamically like you would expect of a button. :victory:
https://github.com/OnePlusOSS/andro...75aa2323b5/drivers/input/misc/switch_theme.c
/*
* HW SCHEMATIC
* Cover | Phone
* |
* -----|----R2(2K Ohm)------[3.3 V
* | |
* R1 |
* | |
* |____|___________ADC
* | |
* | |
* | R3(51K ohm)
* | |
* | = GND
*/
/*
* cover type | cover resist(K 0hm) | ADC voltage (V)
* 1 | 0 | 3.18
* 2 | 5.6 | 2.87
* 3 | 12 | 2.59
* 4 | 20 | 2.31
* 5 | 30.9 | 2.01
* 6 | 51 | 1.62
* 7 | 82 | 1.25
* 8 | 121 | 0.97
* 9 | 200 | 0.67
* 10 | 470 | 0.32
* .. | .. | ...
*
*/
We can assume that Bamboo is Cover type 4.
Here is the Kernel Config paramerter
#changhua 2015-02-12 add for switch theme when change rare cover
config SWITCH_THEME
default n
tristate "switch theme when change rare cover support by ADC"
help
Say Y here if you want to enable the feature.
#add end
Connecting sensors
Will require a new API into the OS for accessing that info, but not very difficult honestly. Then we would need apps to be able to access that and make sure that we attach a "dangerous" level to the system permission for that API. Still, not a big deal.
We also have the RIGHT amount of voltage to be able to do this, even with a a native 2k impedance output from voltage. We can likely use the phone casing underneath the styleswap cover for Ground reference, since some of the panels are ground connected. So we could get Power (3.3V, low current), GND, and ADC input to the phone right under the OnePlus styleswap hardware.
Still, it will require a kernel patch and likely a shared object library topside with some simple tie-ins for frameworks on buttons (something I have done all of this before). However I know that this will take about a week of time after work with a simple API to get going in CyanogenMod. I am booked through mid-October with speaking gigs, travel, and contract engineering work.
Looks like we have a reasonable amount of bit-depth to work with here too. Humidity sensors anyone? Multiple Hardware buttons like Camera shutter? Answer Phone Calls?
Nice thred but I actually do not understand what You are trying to tell us
Are styleSwap covers capable of chaning oneplus2 theme when swapped?
Or You can solve the grounding (home button) issue with Bamboo cover (or with Your tip)?
---------- Post added at 09:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:43 AM ----------
So, if you are Chinese or get the Chinese version, All you need is some copper tape and a 20k ohm thin film resistor and you can have the Bamboo style theme...Cost is $0.01 maybe...plus shipping.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do You mean?
M3ntoR said:
Nice thred but I actually do not understand what You are trying to tell us
Are styleSwap covers capable of chaning oneplus2 theme when swapped?
Or You can solve the grounding (home button) issue with Bamboo cover (or with Your tip)?
---------- Post added at 09:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:43 AM ----------
What do You mean?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He is saying if you have the resistor and tape it up you will get the special theme in the phone. This is one feature in the Chinese version OPT. You get different themes according to what cover you installed.
oh OK. I have chinese op2 with sandstone black. Where excactly should I put this tape ? ;D
M3ntoR said:
oh OK. I have chinese op2 with sandstone black. Where excactly should I put this tape ? ;D
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You just need to attach a small resistor to two pieces of copper tape... then attach it to the cover so that each pin at the back of the phone touches one of the copper tape pads.
[PAD1]-->[TAPE]-[RESISTOR]-[TAPE] -->[PAD2]
I am also saying that it is possible for us to make some OS changes and be able to make our own StyleSwap covers that have built-in Hardware buttons like camera buttons.
Childofthehorn said:
You just need to attach a small resistor to two pieces of copper tape... then attach it to the cover so that each pin at the back of the phone touches one of the copper tape pads.
[PAD1]-->[TAPE]-[RESISTOR]-[TAPE] -->[PAD2]
I am also saying that it is possible for us to make some OS changes and be able to make our own StyleSwap covers that have built-in Hardware buttons like camera buttons.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You thinking that maybe OnePlus plan something? Like some fancy backs with magic buttons?
Wysłane z mojego ONE A2001 przy użyciu Tapatalka
Childofthehorn said:
You just need to attach a small resistor to two pieces of copper tape... then attach it to the cover so that each pin at the back of the phone touches one of the copper tape pads.
[PAD1]-->[TAPE]-[RESISTOR]-[TAPE] -->[PAD2]
I am also saying that it is possible for us to make some OS changes and be able to make our own StyleSwap covers that have built-in Hardware buttons like camera buttons.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't forget to be very carefull and make sure the resistor is 20k! if by any means you get a bad resistor or a low ohm one you can have problems. o prefer to just buy a bamboo cover rather than buy a new phone.
The idea of doing the tape/resistor thing is ok if you know what you are doing
M3ntoR said:
You thinking that maybe OnePlus plan something? Like some fancy backs with magic buttons?
Wysłane z mojego ONE A2001 przy użyciu Tapatalka
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oneplus is certainly planning something... the theme stuff just happened to be the easiest to implement. I am guessing that they may have forgone some of the fast charge and other items to get more GPIO. IIRC the Qualcomm Fast Charge 3.0 chips actually use up pretty much all of the ADC lines available on the new 808/810 series of processors.
Having different themes from switching back panels is weak sauce. Obviously, they were planning something bigger and then couldn't get around to it or are wanting to do so later to make more of an impact. Don't be suprised if they release a button-back that has a bunch of programmable buttons. Heck I could do it, but I am crazy busy until after the Big Android BBQ where I am speaking.
Couldn't it be used for wireless charging.?
Sent from my ONE A2003 using XDA Free mobile app
Childofthehorn said:
Having different themes from switching back panels is weak sauce.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More Chillies?
No chance of Quick charging with the configuration here. They just exposed the ADC line with a 2K ohm in-line (likely to avoid system power ripple or meet minimum impedance).
Troute - Yes.... this must have just been the easiest thing that they could sell to a carrier. But, we should be seeing a hardware button styleswap cover from them. Even the basic code seems to account for as much as a +-5K variance in the styleswap covers and they have readable values (by the ADC line) with nothing designated yet.
I would love to see more of these popped out to the back with pogo pins like these ; much like they have the radio microSMA connectors exposed under the rubber bits for external antennas. (u.FL ? I keep forgetting the official connector name).
Anyone figured out how to use software to change the themes?
Related
Hi there,
as i wrote in the Rainbow Mod for Lumia 800 thread, i'll try to restore DLOAD, update to latest FW, and restore Qualcomm (all with ATF Testpoint) again, that i can give you updated files on Partition 3 of the phone, that the latest rainbow mod build will be working on all phones...
But it seemed that i had a pretty shaky hand, when i was soldering my device, that i "destroyed" a component.
First, it was still fitting, but a little "twistet" as you can see on the pictures attached.
I checked if the phone is still working, and it did, except the "light sensor" which turns off the display when making a call... I can now cancel the call with my ear accidently
I realised an extreme heat and battery consumption when making a call... but maybe it just seems so, because i'm looking for "mistakes" because of the broken component...
Then, because of this, i disassembled my phone again, to check the component... and i just touched it a little bit, and now it fell off...
The component i'm talking about is called "L1605" in the schematics plan, so it should be a "coil" (hope this is correct, as English isn't my native lang...)
Of course, because it "fell off", i don't know how it was placed before. Does a coil have a "polarity", i mean "+" or "-" ? or can i just solder it back onto the mainboard?
i hope you can help me
cheers
hi there,
i searched again and found out, that the "L1605" is an "27nH_0402". In the schematics plan it's part of the "reciever", as you can see in the image attached.
Can you tell me if this coil is important? It "just" goes to GND, so maybe it would be enough to just connect the to pins (were the coil was placed) with some solder ?
It also seems to be part of "FM & GND", so maybe it's just important for FM Radio? I don't use this anyway...
pls help!
i guess it has no polarity...but if u could upload a more detailed picture maybe i can see it clearly..
or search for ( as u can see the black component which has a white sign near the two condensator - it has polarity ) signs, i mean +, or a little colored circle on the component, or some cut-off and if it has one of these it has polarity.
what kind of paste did u use for the soldering? leadless or pb? it does matter.
ps : L means Inductor
It's a simple inductor. You can just solder it back in. It has no polarity.
Do not shorten the contacts. The circuit will probably behave bad.
hi there,
can you recommend me any "special" hardware?
With links would be great!
I only have an ordinary soldering-iron, whrere the tip is 3 times larger then the component
cheers
Here is some of the equipment I use for such a fix:
* Weller WES51 soldering station
* Weller ETU soldering iron fine tip
* curved fine tip tweezers
* straight tip dissection probe
* 20x stereo microscope
* solder
The WES51 soldering iron is available for under US $100 online (Amazon and elsewhere) with a variety of replacement tips available for about US $5 each, and I recommend it if you will be doing much soldering. Otherwise, you can probably find a cheaper one with a fine tip, but without temperature control. When soldering and desoldering small two contact components such as your broken inductor, the best method I've found is to use a second soldering iron so you can melt the solder on both the pads at the same time. Small components are hard to handle, so tweezers and a long sharp needle / dissection tip are very helpful. It's hard to see what you are doing at that scale, so a stereo microscope is almost mandatory. AmScope has some cheap microscopes that are adequate for this purpose, or you can find a fancier used one on eBay. My only complaints with the AmScope microscope I have is that the depth of field is somewhat shallow and I need to get my face closer to the work area than I would like. You can use and lead/tin alloy or lead-free solder designed for electronics use to do a fix like this. Lead / tin alloy solder melts at a lower temperature and is much easier to work with than lead-free solder but may not be as easily available in some countries.
I can't tell for sure without a bill of materials for the phone, but based on what you've said it seems like the replacement part is a 27 nH air core inductor 0402 size such as Murata LQW15AN27NJ00D, which is easily available through Digi-Key and possibly other online electronics component vendors.
Hello unfortunately I broke my the touchscreen (pressed against a desk while the phone was in my pocket and there it goes...)
I'm about to order a replacement LCD + touchscreen. While dissambly today I've noticed that the camera looks very simmilar in terms of dimensions and connectors to the ones found on the original Xperia Z/Z1 . Which got me wondering whether it would be possible to transplant a 20mpx camera module into the ultra
According to all mighty wikipedia https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exmor and google, the Ultra has an IMX134 (4,2mm height), The Z is a IMX135 (5,5 mm height) and Z1 is IMX220 (5,8 mm) ...
So if theoretically I manage to stuff the module inside, can I upgrade the camera? Anyone with more Experience of the Sony ROMs, would I need to do a lot of tweaking on the backend? Looking at the guide http://developer.sonymobile.com/kno...ld-aosp-lollipop-for-unlocked-xperia-devices/ and https://github.com/sonyxperiadev/device-sony-togari , there doesn't seem to be much going on in terms of device configuration for the camera....
Ofc, specifications have to be checked and probably it would require some hacking around the camera apk/rom/kernel to get in running, but just from the top of your mind, do you think it's possible? Or if someone has attempted something simillar before? Anyone with more Experience of the Sony ROMs, would I need to do a lot of tweaking on the backend?
Thanks in advance!
Edit:
Last night I couldn't find it, but today I found a similar question, however no steps were taken.... http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2585918
Replace t4k37 to imx214: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=67865839&postcount=5
Thank you remittor, I'll look into it.
I've decided to attempt the mod Today the new module has arrived and I'm waiting for the new LCD/Touchscreen assembly to arrive (which hopefully I won't short like last time >_<).
I went greedy and opted for the IMX220 from a Z1 instead of the IMX135 of Z. The module is way bigger that the original (of course).
Some preliminary observations:
1. The IMX220 connector PCB is wider, although the connector itself looks the same. It seems that it will fit, If I unglue the motherboard from the frame to connect it
2. It's tight, but the IMX220 fits through the PCB hole physically - maybe leftover from originally using a bigger camera module or just luck
3. The NFC plastic/plate will definetly need to be cutted, since the frame/skeleton is shaped precisely for the IMX134
4. The back cover won't fit (naturally). The options are again sawing part of it with the camera module potruding and gluing something on top or 3D printing a back cover with a Samsung style bulge for the module. (I know, I know this would kill a huge part of the aestetics of the phone as well as maybe a bit of the pocket comfort).
apocalypse_bg said:
Thank you remittor, I'll look into it.
I've decided to attempt the mod Today the new module has arrived and I'm waiting for the new LCD/Touchscreen assembly to arrive (which hopefully I won't short like last time >_<).
I went greedy and opted for the IMX220 from a Z1 instead of the IMX135 of Z. The module is way bigger that the original (of course).
Some preliminary observations:
1. The IMX220 connector PCB is wider, although the connector itself looks the same. It seems that it will fit, If I unglue the motherboard from the frame to connect it
2. It's tight, but the IMX220 fits through the PCB hole physically - maybe leftover from originally using a bigger camera module or just luck
3. The NFC plastic/plate will definetly need to be cutted, since the frame/skeleton is shaped precisely for the IMX134
4. The back cover won't fit (naturally). The options are again sawing part of it with the camera module potruding and gluing something on top or 3D printing a back cover with a Samsung style bulge for the module. (I know, I know this would kill a huge part of the aestetics of the phone as well as maybe a bit of the pocket comfort).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey man, have you succeeded with that modification? I get the same case right now! I wonder if it is possible for Xperia z to recognize the imx220? Cuz it fits tight, but camera doesnt work and i dunno the next steps, first link is too old and doesnt work anymore.
Hi @All,
unfortunately there is no attachable keyboard cover for the S9 yet like there was/is for the S8. I know the camera and fingerprint scanner are different. But would it work (or did someone maybe know someone) who actually tried it and modified the keyboard cover so it works with the S9...
Kind regards
A.
Samsung EJ-CG950BBEGDE Keyboard Cover
bionicbee2000 said:
Hi @All,
unfortunately there is no attachable keyboard cover for the S9 yet like there was/is for the S8. I know the camera and fingerprint scanner are different. But would it work (or did someone maybe know someone) who actually tried it and modified the keyboard cover so it works with the S9...
Kind regards
A.
Samsung EJ-CG950BBEGDE Keyboard Cover
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would be interesting to know.
Remember that the cover-part has a (nfc?) chip and a magnet (near the power key). And also the keyboard part has a tiny magnet in the lower left.
I took one for the S6 Edge apart, and I can see that the S8 is quite similar. See this
So it is NOT just a matter of cutting a larger hole in the cover, the phablet has to be prepared for it with the suitable strategically placed magnetic sensors to detect that it is there.
For fun I have tried to use some of the non S8-variants on the S8, and could get an S8 back to react with the print part from the S6 Edge.
I also tried some of the other backs, but could not get them to work with the S8 (not even with the S8 keyboard)
But as it seems they have stopped production for Note 8 and S8, I think they unfortunately are abandoning the whole idea, so we should be damn lucky if the S9 got the correct sensors AND even in the same place as on S8
ADD:
Just had a look at the ifixit tear downs of the S8- and S9-, and it does not look promising for a total fit....
On the S8, the magnet at the back has its centre approximately 32mm from the top, and 10mm from the power-switch side.
So if I can measure correctly, the magnetic switch must be the tiny little component mounted north of the square chip with "C3 559 X791" (north of the orange square) here, but the S9 got no chip at that location AFAICS from this.
BUT the S9 does have a similar looking component closer to the vibrator, so it MIGHT be prepared for a cover...
The magnet on the key-part is about 16mm from the bottom and 13mm from the volume rocker side. Just north of the tip of the 3.5mm plug. And there IS a similar small component on the other side of the small print on both the S8- and S9-...
ADD II
Apart from the above add, note that surprisingly the keyboard with an S8 ALSO works both in Aeroplane mode and with NFC turned off, so the communication with the case must be a dedicated circuitry.
So that has to be there for the S9 too...
ADD: I just verified that the chip is on a small plate, and thus NOT with any antenna in the back plate (updated blog post linked above), so it SHOULD be possible to move that to another location, if the circuitry is placed elsewhere on the S9-
I just tried the s8 keyboard and I could put it on my s9 (snapdragon). It was a very tight and unstable fit, but when I did get it to click the phone recognized it and resized the screen accordingly. Unfortunately the keyboard below wasnt alugned with the buttons, and there was mostly no response. When it did respond I got a key registered from the row below and to the side, e.g. when pressing 't' it would sometimes register as 'f'. Any ideas on how to get this to work properly?
alh84001 said:
I just tried the s8 keyboard and I could put it on my s9 (snapdragon). It was a very tight and unstable fit, but when I did get it to click the phone recognized it and resized the screen accordingly. Unfortunately the keyboard below wasnt alugned with the buttons, and there was mostly no response. When it did respond I got a key registered from the row below and to the side, e.g. when pressing 't' it would sometimes register as 'f'. Any ideas on how to get this to work properly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very interesting that it works that much! Thanks for the info! This at the least proves that the a S9 was designed for a keyboard.
To bad about the slight misalignment though. Do you see the same displacement in all columns? I mean does a W also give an A, and a P an L? (when it does anything)
You COULD try to take the print out and see if a slight move would fix it. But there is no guarantee, as they could have changed the spacing in either direction too (perhaps squeezed in an extra column)
Why SamSung doesn't make for S9?
eske.rahn said:
Very interesting that it works that much! Thanks for the info! This at the least proves that the a S9 was designed for a keyboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
However, the Samsung Keyboard app, which is responsible for software support of the cover keyboard, does not have a separate kb-cover's layout for the S9 device. This app has layouts for S6, S7, S8, etc. Note 8 is the latest model supported.
Keyboard cover working in exactly the same way as the smart covers. The chip on the back of the case tells the phone the accessory ID, and the magnet on the front signals about the event - the keyboard is connected or the smart cover is closed.
This means that any Samsung smartphone that has version 3 of the Samsung Keyboard app (versions 4 and 5 no longer support cover keyboards) and can detect Samsung accessories, will work with cover keyboards, even those intended for older models. The only problem is shape of the case, I mean geometrical parameters.
1) You connect the keyboard
2) The phone recognize it via back chip + magnet
3) Samsung Keyboard app began to receive signals from it and process them
So no, most likely S9 was not designed for the separate keyboard, but this phone supports keyboard covers from older models.
I have several cover keyboards for S6, S7, S8. I'm thinking of adapting one of them for Note 8 (because it's impossible to find an official overlay keyboard for it!) or another Samsung phone, such as S9 + or Note 9, for which such an accessory was not released at all. Here is my plan:
1) Take a standard protective back cover, glue the chip from the old keyboard cover to it, cut two grooves to snap the front piece with keyboard into place.
2) (most difficult part for me) Design and 3D print a new front part of the keyboard case. Extract the keyboard module and magnet from the old keyboard cover, and fit it into the 3D printed front part.
3) Modify and rebuild the Samsung Keyboard APK to change the XML layout in order to match it the physical layout of the buttons. I may need to get root access to install a modified application, or I may not - IDK, need to try.
I think this should work. At least it looks like it should work.
Unfortunately, I don't have much time for this activity, so I don't know when I'll do it. But maybe it will help someone in his research. Good luck!
Hi!
I have a PX3 unit with MCU HA 3.40 (not a dasaita one, maybe a clone) and it has 6.2 screen with a 800x480 resolution. I "got tired" of this screen, it is small, I am getting older , and I would like to replace it with a bigger one , 7 inch or 9 or 10.1 and with better resolution of course, 1024x600. I can made mods, I am just asking for some advise and sourses of knowledge which is plenty in this forum and thanks in advance for it!
I removed the front panel of the HU. It is connected to the main board with a ribbon. The front panel has an electronic sircuit and the lcd and touch screen is connected to it. I found that the lcd panel is 60 pins and the touch screen is 6 pins. On the back of the front panel there an electronic panel with the circuits and chips of the physical buttons (not touch buttons) and there is also a 40 pin connector (empty) and the lcd screen has a 2 pin cable with red and black color.
I saw some youtube videos of disassembling some new cheap car units with 1024x600 resolution, one with a 7 inch 40 pins ribbon and one with a 10.1 inch 60 pins ribbon and the 2 pins cable. So am thinking either of buying one of them and replace all the front panel or buy only the lcd and the touch panel and make a new "cover" for my car unit .... I don't bother with the physical buttons, I 'll find a way or modding them... But I have some questions:
1. Are these lcd panels and touch screens of the new cheap car units combatible with my unit?
2. Is my 40 pin connector working on MY unit or only the 60 pins one?
3. Is the 6 pin touch screen a "universal" common interface for these car units?
4. What is this 2 pin red/black cable? power for what?
I attach some fotos of my unit. Every suggestion is welcome!
image of HU
electronic sircuit of front panel
LCD screen model
touch screen
Reply with an update if you sent ahead with the screen swap. I'm also curious if they are cross compatible? I have a 9inch 8227L Demo and the gps antenna wasn't working so the seller sent me the same model headunit but with a 10inch screen and upon hooking up the 10inch, Amp chip wasn't connected right or it was faulty. Anyways my plan now was to swap the 9inch working headunits screen with the 10inch. All the connections look the same and if I can swap out the board from the 9 and put it in the ten I will. I just haven't found to much info about it I can or not... Another idea I had was maybe try to disconnect the amp chip from the 9inch and solder it into the 10inch? Do you have any ideas if either of those ideas would work ?
Thanks in advance!
Have you tried to re-solder the pins on the amp?
nic2k said:
Have you tried to re-solder the pins on the amp?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I've yet to try that. The reason being is because it looks as if the one pin that wasn't touching the board (or soldered incorrectly to begin with...) Shorted out and that pin/leg looks a little burnt now. Also it looks as if maybe possibly there wasn't enough Thermal Conductive paste too?? Just a guess though. ?
Hello Android Radio friends,
I have thought a lot about how to solve the problem of overheating Android devices with PX5 and PX6 processors. Next summer will come for sure.
My specially designed passive heat sinks are probably known by some people.
This time, I'm going to focus on active cooling + heatsink.
It was important that as many people as possible can use this method. It should be as easy as possible to install, even by people who have no manual skills.
Therefore I created 3D models of different top covers which you can easily print out if you have a 3D printer.
In this lid there are already the drillings for mounting a fan. I make the whole project available for the community on Thingiverse. I also add number 1 - 22 to each 3D model. If someone doesn't find the 3D model for his own top cover. Tell me the dimensions. I will create the 3d model. Let's make a collection of compatible devices.
Because high temperatures can occur in a car in summer, I used ABS as material. This can withstand temperatures up to 100°C.
Of course you could also drill a big hole in the top cover. But it does not look so nice. ?
If someone doesn't have a 3D printer. There are many different websites that offer 3D printing at low prices.
In the video I also show some used fans and some methods of power supply.
German video on YouTube
https://youtu.be/U36MYCj7FfY
English video on Youtube
https://youtu.be/U36MYCj7FfY
The whole project on Thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4240690
What do you think of this project?
Alex
Update 10.07.2020
Meanwhile there are 22 different 3D models.
Nice ideas.
Had some thoughts about that first minute I unpacked radio upgrade for my car, PX6 unit. It has some perforations on the back but it is all closed underneath with plastic so I think almost no air circulation happens there. Yeah it is 2DIN with aluminium heatsink on the back, and yes in my car ventilation is right above it but - I don't like it. Maybe some holes could help.
I'm writing this because of an experience with completely different thing, had annoying fan noise on an instrument amplifier, which was at 100% all the time. No matter how it was used or maybe unused at the time, noise was unbearable. Manual control is too dangerous because I know sooner or later I would forget to turn it up when needed, but it can be automatic so quick and nice fix was temperature control board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32886053224.html . I think it could work nice for projects like yours :good:
Is the fan mod really useful?
Does anyone else use a fan in his HU?
iMattmax said:
Is the fan mod really useful?
Does anyone else use a fan in his HU?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
simply useless. If you switch stock thermal pad with a better quality one and install a good heatsink all is done. I did it one year ago and nothing more is necessary.
Consider that PX5 is a 5W SoC so a passive cooling is more than sufficient to remove heat
giouncino said:
simply useless. If you switch stock thermal pad with a better quality one and install a good heatsink all is done. I did it one year ago and nothing more is necessary.
Consider that PX5 is a 5W SoC so a passive cooling is more than sufficient to remove heat
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely not useless. Did you see the temperatures in combination with a heatsink?
A fan in the top cover cooling down the whole device.
Ati_gangster said:
Definitely not useless. Did you see the temperatures in combination with a heatsink?
A fan in the top cover cooling down the whole device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I performed a torture test and SoC temperature during this test was between 70-80°C (never reached during normal use). So as I stated before: a 5W SoC can easily be cooled passively. If you want to increase noise, failure probability of the fan and dust inside the radio, you can but it's not necessary at all. I have experience in cooling CPUs (also with massive overclock) for decades, this is not my first experience.
Moreover my radio is working passively since last year and I've nevere experienced stuttering or problems due to heat.
Other parts of the radio are not hot at all.
Awesome job Alex, and great video. Comprehensive tests too. Thanks so much for your hard work
giouncino said:
Yes, I performed a torture test and SoC temperature during this test was between 70-80°C (never reached during normal use). So as I stated before: a 5W SoC can easily be cooled passively. If you want to increase noise, failure probability of the fan and dust inside the radio, you can but it's not necessary at all. I have experience in cooling CPUs (also with massive overclock) for decades, this is not my first experience.
Moreover my radio is working passively since last year and I've nevere experienced stuttering or problems due to heat.
Other parts of the radio are not hot at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
70 to 80°C under which conditions?
What outside temperature?
Device 1Din or 2Din?
Cover open or closed?
Air conditioning on?
The advantage of active cooling is that not only the CPU is cooled, but also all other components such as voltage regulators, capacitors, amplifier chip and other microchips.
And if the 5€ fan should break after years, it's still better than if a 300€+ device breaks down.
Ati_gangster said:
70 to 80°C under which conditions?
What outside temperature?
Device 1Din or 2Din?
Cover open or closed?
Air conditioning on?
The advantage of active cooling is that not only the CPU is cooled, but also all other components such as voltage regulators, capacitors, amplifier chip and other microchips.
And if the 5€ fan should break after years, it's still better than if a 300€+ device breaks down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tested a lot with and without heat sink and fan, same as you did.
By the way... Thanks a lot for providing the 3-D-images to print the top cover. :highfive:
I printed the top cover for my head units to be used with a 80mm "be quiet" fan, which is really not audible if the unit is mounted in the dash board. Even on bench test the fan is really quiet.
The CPU temperature of all my 2-DIN units got down from (in Throttling Test) ~95°C down to max 48°C. Throttling was a real an issue. Up to 55% throttling without cooling down.
With normal usage (navigation with active route guidance, some Tasker tasks in background working, audio decoding active) the CPU is cooled down from nearly 80°C to ~30°C at ~25°C outside temperature, which is much more comfortable for all the parts in the unit and resolved the throttling issues to less than 5-10%, dependent of the unit.
Tested on:
PX5 (RK3368)
CSN2 (RK3368) ...which was delivered with a complete closed top cover. I got temperatures without any running apps of something about 85°C, because no ventilation was possible.
RL7A (RK3399)
SC9853i
Guys I’m in search for heatsink that fits my 1din PX6 unit. Do you have the measurements for the module size I need to cover with the heatsink?
Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I added this to mine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RYK3J41/ref=dp_prsubs_1
the temps on my px5 swap were 90c which is way too hot for my liking, with this it never went above 60c and you cant hear any noise.
Hi, great job. Congratulations. Anyway, where to buy Alex's android fan kit from?
Geox70 said:
Hi, great job. Congratulations. Anyway, where to buy Alex's android fan kit from?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Directly from him. Search for his channel on YouTube, there is somewhere his WhatsApp number written. Just contact him over there and ask for fan kit.
Don't know if this is the right location to post this but I just purchased a Vanku px6 4/64 and had every intention of at least putting a heat sink on it and I was pleasantly surprised to find this.. and it was even secured with screws. Win win View attachment 5114453
Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
View attachment 5114487
Sorry don't know why the picture isn't showing. It is a pretty robust heat sink.
Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
My solution is a low-noise 12v fan stuck on top of the heatsink with strong double-sided mounting tape. Works like a charm.
Attached is the picture I was trying to show earlier. This is the stock heatsink in the Vanku
Edit:
Sorry, I give up. I can't get the pic to show.
I simply put an old intel mobo southbridge chip heatsink on a px6, some of them are very large
It has very long fins (over 1 1/4 ") by chance i could mod it to put longer screws to hold the px6 in place with the added heat sink
Fully passive, never had any problems
I simply run my PX6 with no lid. Makes zero difference to induce RF noise etc and my temps are cut in half for free.
Kudos to Alex (Ati_gangster)!
Simply sent the width of the original cover and the position of the two side holes and the size of the favorite fan (not included in the scope of delivery) via WhatsApp and two days later I had my cover in the mailbox. The fit is great and my fan fits perfectly into the existing holes.
My fan:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08WHMP2CD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_6X7857YXKXYD8QC9SYDB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
(trial assembly, still without fan)