For users with MD725 Blue wanting to upgrade to Android 10, a potential BT module swap may now be possible. A supplier found here:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_msfMaoV
update 11/21 - can be installed in any unit. Only the RX, TX and supply are connected.
marchnz said:
For users with MD725 Blue wanting to upgrade to Android 10, a potential BT module swap may now be possible. A supplier found here:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_msfMaoV
For now, I won't be "upgrading", staying with the last free version 3.1 of Hal Android 8, as all the integrations work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this would work with every px5?
Giorgio-cc said:
this would work with every px5?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your unit is an MTCD, and wanting to "upgrade" to Android 10, either PX5 or PX6 HCT SOM is applicable.
I am not fully sure if this will always fit. I got a KLD unit and it uses MD725. The MD725 modules are integrated Bluetooth/WiFi module. The module actually is sitting on a soldered-on board which got 4 pins on one and 3 pins on the other side. Similar to this one. The one in the link seems to have only 1 RF out while my MD725 seems to have 2 antenna connectors. Might weell be that one is for BT and one for Wifi and the one on Ali is WiFi only.
Picture of my board here.
However I had a look at pictures I took from the KLD board. On the edge of the board where the ST MCU sits (behind the FM can) I see a pinheader with 11 solder points which is unequipped. Also the surrounding passive components seem to be all equipped. The module you refer to seem to have a 10-Pin interface.
I do have another unit with WQ_BC5 bluetooth (which also works on Android 10) where a very similar pinheader is equipped with a Bluetooth module. The module however does not look identical to the one you linked but it might work. Also on this board the 11-Pin header is used while the first pin (which is "crossed" by silkscreen) is not used.
A couple of things are not fully clear to me:
I guess nobody will know if the pinheader is actually connected to the MCU unless it's equipped.
Any clue what type the module is? The chip looks like Realtek RTL8761___ which might be an RTL8761ATV. As I see it's got an UART interface it might be pretty standard.
Will the module eventually conflict with the built-in BT module in MD725? Likely not as I guess the USB-connected bluetooth part of MD725 will simply not be used if another BT module is selected in factory settings.
I might end up just ordering one and solder it to my board and then having to try all BT modules in factory settings in order to find the matching one.
Yes, the header is correct, unless the header is for DTV like my unit.
In my case, I dont have the BT header, what I would do is wire according to the schematic. Probably easier said than done, but doable.
marchnz said:
Yes, the header is correct, unless the header is for DTV like my unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have no clue how this would look like.
marchnz said:
what I would do is wire according to the schematic. Probably easier said than done, but doable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I guess there is no schematic included in the ali offering. Neither for my unit. So I will likely have to follow some traces. Or just solder it and watch out for some magic smoke.
However I believe the pinout is likely always the same on those units. Same as for those USB daughterboard modules (see my other link). However here at least the boards are usually labelling the pins.
I actually ordered one of these modules and will have a look. Perhaps soldering it into my bench unit first (replacing the WQ_BC5 module). If no magic smoke escapes I can search for the correct module type in factory settings and then solder it to my car unit.
Well, to be honest I am quite OK currently with HAL Android 9 on my car unit so I will see when I got time to try this.
Could it really be that easy?
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Anybody with an similar board? Pins are located between radio module and MD725.
The scematics provided by marchnz do point me more to DAB and TV instead of Bluetooth.
Psychotonikum said:
Could it really be that easy?
View attachment 5202851
Anybody with an similar board? Pins are located between radio module and MD725.
The scematics provided by marchnz do point me more to DAB and TV instead of Bluetooth.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you take a hires pic of at least half the board in that section. I can check against the schematic.
marchnz said:
Can you take a hires pic of at least half the board in that section. I can check against the schematic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Attached Files to Post #7. If it's not good enought I will make a full dissasembly and also have a look on the backside.
Hello guys! In my case can i do something to upgrade the Bluetooth and wifi module MD725 (RTL8723BU) ?
My unit is a dasaita px5 HA 4gb ram.
Thanks
Hancock88 said:
Hello guys! In my case can i do something to upgrade the Bluetooth and wifi module MD725 (RTL8723BU) ?
My unit is a dasaita px5 HA 4gb ram.
ThanksView attachment 5228329
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure your RTL is providing BT? The board, bottom of pic, right hand, vertically mounted looks to be your BT module. Can you try get some detailed pics of that board?
Also, what is the BT type set to in factory settings?
marchnz said:
Are you sure your RTL is providing BT? The board, bottom of pic, right hand, vertically mounted looks to be your BT module. Can you try get some detailed pics of that board?
Also, what is the BT type set to in factory settings?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don’t see nothing else except top vertically mounted what i guess is radio module..
This is the bottom right side what you ask and photo from my unit
Hancock88 said:
This is the bottom right side what you ask and photo from my unitView attachment 5228941View attachment 5228943View attachment 5228943
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks to the the tuner. You could look into adapting from the schematic, not impossible but difficult.
I think i will forget this mod and stay with what i have because my motherboard is older and I don't have a separate bluetooth tracing or slot, I saw that down in the corner I have 10 pins to connect something but I don't have any schematic to know if I can stick a newer bluetooth card there. My motherboard is a Intel HA-SOFIA 2016-11-01
Hello Can I install this module on this board?
cześć
Czy mogę zainstalować ten moduł na tej płycie?
[email protected] said:
Hello Can I install this module on this board?
cześć
Czy mogę zainstalować ten moduł na tej płycie?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very difficult to know from that image. Try checking against the witson MTCD schematic (in my sig) which has the BT schematics.
Psychotonikum said:
Attached Files to Post #7. If it's not good enought I will make a full dissasembly and also have a look on the backside.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that looks to be the BT connector - that's lucky.
Check the witson schematic in my signature.
Moje radio jest typu GS
SkyBeam2048 said:
I actually ordered one of these modules and will have a look. Perhaps soldering it into my bench unit first (replacing the WQ_BC5 module). If no magic smoke escapes I can search for the correct module type in factory settings and then solder it to my car unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did receive the module today. Unfortunately the pin descriptions do not fully match to what I can see on my bench unit. My Car unit does not have any pin descriptions on the silkscreen at all.
Code:
Bench Unit Bluetooth Module pin descriptions:
x -BLED
---RST
---SDA
---SCL
---GND
---VDD
---MIC-
---MIC+
---SGND
---LOUT
---ROUT
x--PIO10
The first and last pin do not seem to be connected.
And here the pin descriptions on Aliexpress module.
Code:
Aliexpress module pin descriptions:
---RST
---RX
---TX
---GND
---5V
---AGND
---NC
---GND
---CTS
---RTS
Basically the first pins (RST, SDA/SCL/GND/5V) might match but the second part of my bench unit WQ_BC5 seems to be some audio interface (MIC-, MIC+, SGND, LOUT, ROUT) while the Aliexpress module provides some potential serial interface (GNC, CTS, RTS).
I guess I will have to check some schmatics before. Perhaps my car unit is wired differently too.
Related
Updating with just the patched classes, instead of the update.zip due to complaints. Inside you will find the source to the app (yeah doing it in Settings.apk would be better, I'm being lazy) and the modified classes for services.jar. This is not working yet, it is being uploaded so other devs can tinker as well. We need kernel source before this will work, more than likely.
Issues known:
->breaks dock support.
Needs:
-> Drivers
-> ??
Cable Details:
GizmoDroid said:
From what I have gathered, there are three common types of cables most people might have hiding in their closet. There are multiple devices that use these types of cables, but most of them tend to follow those pinouts. If we definitively find out the right layout, you can mod a cable you already have, or get them for dirt cheap off of ebay/monoprice (fully recommended, they have nice cables for cheap).
[Size=+0]Common Cable Pinouts[/Size]
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
A) Samsung Galaxy S official cable, Nokia (cable #CA-75U), cables that come with most Media Players (Archos, Gigabeat, Creative, Zen Vision, Cowon iAudio, Apple iBook)
B) Standard Camcorder cable -This is the most likely kind that you'd find at a store if it doesn't specify what it is for.
C) Zune
D) iPod Video
[Size=+0]Quick Fix[/size]
Some cables you already have can be used without modding the cable, even if the pinout isn't the same.
Type B/C/D device with a different Type B/C/D cable
By plugging the video plug into one of the audio channels, and vice versa, you can swap the signal without cutting your cable. Refer to the chart to see which audio channel to plug the video into.
Type B device with a Type A cable
Plug the cable in all the way, then pull it out one notch. You will have only one working audio channel though, so this will sacrifice audio quality.
[Size=+0]What type do I have?[/Size]
If you have a multimeter, it is easy to find which type of cable you have. Set your multimeter to resistance (ohms). Put one lead on an RCA signal pin, then touch the other to each of the 4 spots on 3.5mm jack. Whichever one shows ~0 ohms means that that RCA signal is connected to that spot on the jack. Some MM have a continuity mode that will beep whenever you make a closed circuit. This is easier since you don't have to look at the MM while you are doing this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
jcase said:
Status:
I have no phone yet, this will improve once it gets here (this week? damn slow ebayers).
Patches Applied
Kernel /init.rc
->patch applied to run tvoutserver as a system service
services.jar /ServerThread.class
->patch applied to see the tvoutservice
services.jar /HeadsetObserver.class
->patch applied to properly detect rca cable
App
->applies needed setting, launches hidden tvout settings menu
Issues known:
->breaks dock support.
Our tests were inconclusive, as we only had one cable of an unknown pinout and one tester. We have gotten rid of all errors, the device sees the cable now, runs the service and communicates with the service.
Patch is for Superclean based on eb01 with voodoo. I am not responsible for any thing that happens due to this patch. Please don't apply unless you know what you are doing and can recover a "soft brick" on your own.
Patch
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8699733/apks/tvoutpatch001.zip
App
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8699733/apks/BallmerPeakTVOut.apk
Please report back any crashes, failures or for sure if it works.
Please report the type of cable you used, if it worked or not and if known the pinout.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What the!!!??
Have you actually gotten to see anything on the screen yet?? I'm going to bust this out and try it now. I have my own cable that has been sitting in the packaging for weeks just waiting for someone to come out with this. I will test it out and report back shortly. I have no qualms about bringing my Fascinate back from the dead if I bork it ...
If this works, and something actually shows up on the TV, super big thanks!
Wait as in a micro usb to composite/component? HDMI?
Wait, wha? This would be awesome!
Before I blow $40 on cable ... do you know if this is supposed to only work for analog NTSC output or if HDMI output over the microUSB is one of the available options?
edit: sorry finakechi, you beat me to it.
Subscribed.
3.5mm to RCA, we haven't gotten output to the screen. I ordered a grip of cables and a fascinate, but it wont be til friday when I can test it.
Testing shows it seems to work, and nolonger errors. We just haven't gotten output. I posted here with hopes of someone having a working cable with the right pinout, or another dev picking up interest and joining us.
the usb to hdmi cable is to costly and I won't be looking into it unless someone sends me one. I think RCA is good enough.
I know we have two cables at work that are from two different digital cameras..they both work with their respective cameras but only one works with the fascinate and the vibrant phones we have here... the pinout looks the same though... so you may be getting output and you just don't know it yet.
Got an error report:
<fuzzhead> i do think your app/patch is kind of working or trying to work though. i opened gallery and video player and both fc'ed while i was playing with rcas. leads me to believe it was trying to output
If someone with experience using logcat can reproduce this, and get me the log it would greatly help.
kmalinich said:
I know we have two cables at work that are from two different digital cameras..they both work with their respective cameras but only one works with the fascinate and the vibrant phones we have here... the pinout looks the same though... so you may be getting output and you just don't know it yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean works on the fascinate?
I have this EXACT cable. Will test out in the next 24 hours. If this cable doesn't work, nothing will.
Syn Ack said:
I have this EXACT cable. Will test out in the next 24 hours. If this cable doesn't work, nothing will.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the cable doesnt work, switch out the wires, it might not be yellow that is video out. Also if it doesnt work, then we just investigate further.
jcase said:
What do you mean works on the fascinate?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
damn, that was a hell of a typo. I meant captivate
kmalinich said:
damn, that was a hell of a typo. I meant captivate
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahaha. That is a little bit of an "oopsie."
Edit: Well, this is weird. I installed the patch, and now it's doing the robotic female voice and taking forever to reboot. I wiped caches and such, but I don't remember changing any voodoo settings ... hmm. Yeah, it's still talking to me. Weird. We'll see what happens. I'm on EB01, but not a superclean. Suppose locking up a phone is as good a reason as any to try a new ROM.
Well, after a successful boot, the app indeed runs and lets me change settings without any apparent issues - no force closes, etc. I have the mini jack to the three RCA breakout cables. It's the Dynex brand from Best Buy (purchased when I still had employee discount, of course!) With TV Out enabled or disabled (I tested PAL and NTSC both just for fun) I couldn't get the TV to display any audio or video regardless of how I plugged each cable in - red, white, or yellow. I am going to have to find some cable clamps and do some individual circuit testing and see if it's send out any signal at all, and trace it. It should at least be sending out some kind of audio, because I tested regular stereo headphones, and they still work. I'm excited to monkey around with this a bit. If I can narrow down which signal is going where on the 3.5 to RCA adapter cable I have, I can at least detect, hopefully, that audio is still being sent properly, and even more hopefully, if there is a pos/neg combo that will magically be a video signal. No more time to work on this tonight though.
Thankyou, jcase. I am waited for it, will beta test it as soon as get my cable.
djp952 said:
Wait, wha? This would be awesome!
Before I blow $40 on cable ... do you know if this is supposed to only work for analog NTSC output or if HDMI output over the microUSB is one of the available options?
edit: sorry finakechi, you beat me to it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Before anyone overpays for a cable:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=3.5mm+to+RCA&x=0&y=0
O this would be awesome if it works! I'm following this.
I already have the cable, it's a generic from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1D0BW
Will test and report. I think I love you.
Not all cables will have the correct pinout (which we dont know what it is).
Damn, jcase. First you help me with my Droid and now that I got a Fascinate you help with that too!
So I dont have the proper tools to do this but maybe someone else does.
The GPS dongle is the same connector as the keyboard dock, however due to the gps housing it does not physically fit. But with with the right torx screwdriver it seems possible that it may be able to be disassembled and tested to see if it will work if you were to plug it into the keyboard dock.
Any theories out there on if this will work or not?
I plan to get a torx screwdriver tomorrow to test this out unless someone else has already tried?
imadork8317 said:
So I dont have the proper tools to do this but maybe someone else does.
The GPS dongle is the same connector as the keyboard dock, however due to the gps housing it does not physically fit. But with with the right torx screwdriver it seems possible that it may be able to be disassembled and tested to see if it will work if you were to plug it into the keyboard dock.
Any theories out there on if this will work or not?
I plan to get a torx screwdriver tomorrow to test this out unless someone else has already tried?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It might... the only problem I can think of is that the dock connects its USB port to the tablet through this connector and I'm willing to be the GPS in the dongle does the same. I'm not sure what would happen if two devices connected to the USB port on the tablet at the same time...
someone has actually done this already and posted pix. BUT it doesnt work when its plugged into the dock 40 pin port. they are trying to pinpoint the reason as to why. could be possible the dock 40 pin is for power and charging tablet only. it may not have data connections pins in it. the other theory is that the gps dongle software is only pointed at the actual tablet 40 pin connector. so if you attach it to the dock, the prime recognizes. i was thinking maybe developers could modify or add another file path in the programming so dongle would work when plugged in either.
check out my gps dongle test thread. there are pix of it. my op pix exceeded bandwith and not showing up at the moment. but the person who originally posted up the opened dongle is in that thread. also person is in there who posted it wouldn't work on dock so far. Also check out Erusman gps and wifi thread. where he opened up his prime. i know they will be modding the dongle in there also.
demandarin said:
someone has actually done this already and posted pix. BUT it doesnt work when its plugged into the dock 40 pin port. they are trying to pinpoint the reason as to why. could be possible the dock 40 pin is for power and charging tablet only. it may not have data connections pins in it. the other theory is that the gps dongle software is only pointed at the actual tablet 40 pin connector. so if you attach it to the dock, the prime recognizes. i was thinking maybe developers could modify or add another file path in the programming so dongle would work when plugged in either.
check out my gps dongle test thread. there are pix of it. my op pix exceeded bandwith and not showing up at the moment. but the person who originally posted up the opened dongle is in that thread. also person is in there who posted it wouldn't work on dock so far. Also check out Erusman gps and wifi thread. where he opened up his prime. i know they will be modding the dongle in there also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks demandarin, i will check those out.
I'm also working on this. Its kind of interesting.
demandarin said:
someone has actually done this already and posted pix. BUT it doesnt work when its plugged into the dock 40 pin port. they are trying to pinpoint the reason as to why. could be possible the dock 40 pin is for power and charging tablet only. it may not have data connections pins in it. the other theory is that the gps dongle software is only pointed at the actual tablet 40 pin connector. so if you attach it to the dock, the prime recognizes. i was thinking maybe developers could modify or add another file path in the programming so dongle would work when plugged in either.
check out my gps dongle test thread. there are pix of it. my op pix exceeded bandwith and not showing up at the moment. but the person who originally posted up the opened dongle is in that thread. also person is in there who posted it wouldn't work on dock so far. Also check out Erusman gps and wifi thread. where he opened up his prime. i know they will be modding the dongle in there also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not true, it must have data connection pins in it. Connect your charger cable to the dock with the prime attached to it and then connect it to your pc. Works the same way as if you were to connect it directly to the prime. That's what I do to transfer new ROMs, pictures and whatnot without the need to disconnect the prime.
Coderedpl said:
Not true, it must have data connection pins in it. Connect your charger cable to the dock with the prime attached to it and then connect it to your pc. Works the same way as if you were to connect it directly to the prime. That's what I do to transfer new ROMs, pictures and whatnot without the need to disconnect the prime.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But power and data isn't going to account for all 40 pins is it? I still think that some pins are arranged differently between the Prime's port and the dock's. All the extra pins are going to be info for the keyboard and USB and everything. I doubt all the pins even make a connection on the dock's port because the dock isn't about to have a dock plugged into it. The dongle probably uses some of the same information pathways that the keyboard requires and doesn't even have in it's female port.
Coderedpl said:
Not true, it must have data connection pins in it. Connect your charger cable to the dock with the prime attached to it and then connect it to your pc. Works the same way as if you were to connect it directly to the prime. That's what I do to transfer new ROMs, pictures and whatnot without the need to disconnect the prime.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
who said it was true? those were all possible reasons as to why it didn't work that was thrown out there by other people. then that eliminates that reason. more than likely a software issue. the software probably only points to prime tablet connector port only. developers would have to take a look at it.
So i tore my GPS apart anyways just for fun, the actually device is fairly small, probably only a quarter of the size of the housing. I assumed they made it large enough so they can add the lock feature to make it more durable rather than small and could easily break. And as everyone else has already confirmed it does not communicate through the keyboard.
Where does the 40-pin connector travel while in the keyboard and what pins does the GPS unit use?
I've never found a pinout for the Transformer's 40 pin connector.
We know there are at least two sets of USB lines - one pair for the external devices (host) and one to make the Prime a peripheral for a PC (client).
TheWerewolf said:
I've never found a pinout for the Transformer's 40 pin connector.
We know there are at least two sets of USB lines - one pair for the external devices (host) and one to make the Prime a peripheral for a PC (client).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Somewhere I could have sworn I have some OG Transformer pinouts. I'll have to look around all my bookmarks, but I don't know if they'd actually be the same.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using XDA Premium HD via my tethered HTC Vision
This one?
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
From http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=19566215&postcount=35
No, but now I have that one too
Lol, the one I had was much less detailed http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=14937362
Would you like to see pictures of the gps dongle device itself?
I have also opened up the gps kit. I have several pictures of me measuring the pins with a volt/ohm meter. If you want I could upload them? Please give me a like, and I will
Also please see this picture of the inside of the 40-pin prime-dock-connector.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1114228&stc=1&d=1339111909
I guess that could be helpfull too.
So the transformer tablets have been out too long for us to not know what is and isn't incorporated in the 40 pin connector, I started to map to pins on the connector and i think we should all work and add to this. I was unsure which pin was #1 and which was #40 but i have the orientation. Below is what i have so far.
I found that only 2 of the USB 3.0 pins seem to be in use in the plug (SSTX+ and GND_DRAIN). Seriously lets start working on this, maybe make it a sticky or something.
UPDATE 5/24/12
I updated the order of the pins so its clearer since it was such a TERRIBLE representation. Also added some pins.
UPDATE 5/7/12
Still working on this, haven't found much more out but i want to keep the thread alive. Keep trying everyone!
UPDATE 5/2/12
Please take not that this is not an official thread from ASUS but the self proclaimed place to officially post Pinout information.
I added a picture and modified the Pin numbers. Everything currently on the pinout has been verified. I also did some work to see if/where the audio linout was but was not sucessful, i will try more soon.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Agian, please feel free to add to this and once pins have been confirmed i will add them to the diagram.
Great thread. I've been wondering about this...but one more item of clarification is necessary....To determine YOUR pin 1, with the ASUS logo side up, are the pins pointed up or down in your classification.
I also think that you should change the title a little....modify "OFFICIAL"...because you don't work for ASUS....or do you?
robertg9 said:
Great thread. I've been wondering about this...but one more item of clarification is necessary....To determine YOUR pin 1, with the ASUS logo side up, are the pins pointed up or down in your classification.
I also think that you should change the title a little....modify "OFFICIAL"...because you don't work for ASUS....or do you?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont work for asus and im not sure how to change the title.
with the asus logo on the left with the plug vertical, looking at the plug my pin #1 is the bottom left.
bjohnston115 said:
i dont work for asus and im not sure how to change the title.
with the asus logo on the left with the plug vertical, looking at the plug my pin #1 is the bottom left.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could change it "UNOfficial"....just a suggestion
I think I understand you, but consider the words:
With the pins facing you and the ASUS Logo on the Left....
(just a suggestion....it's your thread....and a great one....I hope we get ALL the pins filled in)
Bob
Or this could be the self acclaimed official thread discussing pinout, not the officially released information itself. I think the title works, will discourage a dozen other threads about this however OP is now charged with the duty of keeping it up to date
OP try finding out what pins are used by the keyboard dock itself, not just the tablet. I think several pins must be to pass through USB to the dock and some must be for the keyboard, others must be to pass power through the keyboard and theres gotta be a switch somewhere or a pin thats jumped just to tell the prime its connected to the dock.
Purely speculation of course. Good thread, keep it up!
Here is image I found on another thread:
From: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=19566215&postcount=35
awesome! however i believe the TF101 and TF201 connectors are slightly different, unfortunately those pics come from the TF101 forums... we need someone to do the same for the 201 connectors (high res macro pictures)
EDIT Scratch that, from what i can tell the 101 and 201 connectors are exactly the same. The docks are slightly different thats why i thought the connectors were different but the USB adapter works no problem. Perhaps someone with a GPS dongle can try removing it from the shell and try it on a 101 see if it works there? (maybe the software isnt there on the 101, who knows)
Anyways, the 101 and 201 connectors should be pretty much identical.
pileot said:
awesome! however i believe the TF101 and TF201 connectors are slightly different, unfortunately those pics come from the TF101 forums... we need someone to do the same for the 201 connectors (high res macro pictures)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The SD card and USB dongles work on both, so at least there is some compatibility.
Someone with a dock and an oscilloscope should have a look
Awesome Thread indeed!
PS. When taking up close pictures, try to set it up to MACRO.
babymatteo said:
Awesome Thread indeed!
PS. When taking up close pictures, try to set it up to MACRO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks. I took the picture with my prime and didnt see a macro setting when i looked.
Once we find out the pins that tell the dock/ tablet that it's docked, maybe I can finally keep my USB power on output even when it's not docked. So I can charge my phone when I tether.
Ok, few things.... Firstly, The photo in OP and the photo a few posts down from the TF101 are flipped 180, i suggest OP changes his pin numbers to match the 101, for continuity.
2nd
can anyone confirm or deny that the TF101 power cable works with the TF201? For another project i need to know which pins are for power from the USB charger.... can someone help shed some light on this?
UPDATE Ok so it looks to me anyways most of the accessories that are made for the 101 are saying they work for the 201 as well, chargers, USB adapters, etc. so it stands to reason they have the same pinout
..........
jaycustom said:
Once we find out the pins that tell the dock/ tablet that it's docked, maybe I can finally keep my USB power on output even when it's not docked. So I can charge my phone when I tether.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Based on a LOT of googling from what i can tell the prime doesnt indicate its charging until it reads over 11 volts coming in so i dont think you can merely jump a couple pins to trick it.
Sorry for the bad news. Sure wish there was better information out there :/
pileot said:
Based on a LOT of googling from what i can tell the prime doesnt indicate its charging until it reads over 11 volts coming in so i dont think you can merely jump a couple pins to trick it.
Sorry for the bad news. Sure wish there was better information out there :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually meant keep the usb power on, even if not docked. Right now I can charge my phone in the keyboard usb, as long as it's docked and the screen is on. As soon as the screen shuts off, or I undock, usb power cuts off. I basically wanna charge my phone even though I am not docked.
Unless that's what you meant and l didn't understand.
Ahh so basically use your dock as a backup battery... Idunno that would mean tearing apart the dock and messing with stuff, I'm not quite there yet. Lemme finish my work on the dongle then we can see about messing up the dock
jaycustom said:
I actually meant keep the usb power on, even if not docked. Right now I can charge my phone in the keyboard usb, as long as it's docked and the screen is on. As soon as the screen shuts off, or I undock, usb power cuts off. I basically wanna charge my phone even though I am not docked.
Unless that's what you meant and l didn't understand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The dock has its own firmware, so im sure things can be modified. If only a dev could look into modifying the firmware we'd be laughing!
pileot said:
Ahh so basically use your dock as a backup battery... Idunno that would mean tearing apart the dock and messing with stuff, I'm not quite there yet. Lemme finish my work on the dongle then we can see about messing up the dock
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly...charge anything thru the docks usb at anytime.
If someone was willing to send me a spare dock to meddle with then sure i'll have a go at it but i cant risk my only dock. Sorry!
Bump to keep the thread alive!
Got my Moto 360 2015 today and quickly realized that the main block to us getting any development on this is that we don't have a way to access it with a computer. I did a partial [very partial] tear down and noticed several pins that could be a usb interface. My question is what would be the most logical way of figuring out what pins do what?
P.S. I know there is a lot of talk about if there is a hidden speaker or not, while I wasn't able to get the watch apart enough to answer definitively it does look like the slot on the side corresponds to a hole under the plastic back... hopefully we'll know more soon.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Posting this image for smartphone. Couldn't get it posted on his account.
I can't find the pins,,can you find it?
Hey,
Do you have some more information about the pinout? I have the same watch and I want to try connect it to USB, because I can't switch it on, and maybe with USB I can start some recovery mode or something like this.
I also found other "test pads" below the plastic cover with antenna. I found some pins, that I am sure about function. Below I wrote two links to images (I can't add attachment to post - just remove the spaces from the address below):
menuet. no-ip. biz/ images/ moto_360_2015_pinout_back.png
menuet. no-ip. biz/ images/ moto_360_2015_pinout.png
Here is description of pins on the images:
1-Power switch; 2-?; 3-?; 4-Battery; 5-?; 6-GND;
A1-?; A2-?; A3-Antenna; A4-?; A5-USB5V; A6-GND
Maybe you have some other info how to switch on this watch?
Best regards,
menuet
I know this is so old... but maybe someone that is passionate about electronics could find a way to connect usb cable...
There must be a way... The bootloader says this..
I was thinking that in @menuet pictures, A1, A2, A5, A6 could be the 4 wires that should connect to a usb cable
If you're looking to send adb commands to the watch why not use Bluetooth debugging?
https://developer.android.com/training/wearables/apps/bt-debugging.html
I know that... I was hoping to find a way to make a usb cable like for the first generation, and in this way to unlock the bootloader, root...etc...
The 1st gen had pogo pins -- have you checked the corresponding location of the second gen? I'm interested to find out if the layout is the same (although completely enclosed by the case).
stevemw said:
The 1st gen had pogo pins -- have you checked the corresponding location of the second gen? I'm interested to find out if the layout is the same (although completely enclosed by the case).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, didn't checked yet... I don't want to disaasembly my watch yet.. I just added some comments, maybe someone has already an old/broken watch an can check the pins...
@icysea and @SmartphoneER and @menuet posted some pictures that might be helpful...
I don't know electronics. I am just a programmer. BUt I asked one of my colleagues that knows, and he told me that doesn't recognize the new look of the wires...
I think that they made a special cable to access the bootloader...
P.S. I attached, @menuet 's pictures...
Thank you....
UPDATE:
found the full disassembly process: http://it.sohu.com/20160126/n435898447.shtml. It has more technical details...
I remember the white latex-covered finger tips. I came across this teardown a while ago but couldn't find it again.
hei... let's work together and find those PINS... Maybe someone has a broken watch that can use to find out where are the pins for an USB cable...
Motorola did a great job with hiding the pins, but everything that is done by human can be hacked by human....
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
found one more disassembly:
http://www.btspeaker.cn/thread-7582-1-1.html
UPDATE:
Also, seems like swapping the D+ and D- from the USB scheme, doesn't do any harm. Maybe someone can try this. I would have tried on my watch, but I am from Romania and my watch was bought from US. So, no warranty. And it's still functional, and working great....
See here for more details:
http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/73295/in-a-usb-cable-is-it-ok-to-swap-the-d-and-d-wires
This is going to sound weird but I have the second gen and it does appear to have an unlocked bootloader. I noticed because I bought this watch used and I couldn't update. The thing is the guy I bought it from didn't do it. The plastic ring is still on the watch so I don't understand how this was done unless they accessed the pins. Can you even do that over Bluetooth?
I'm posting here because I would need help in regards to this. Otherwise I'm screwed I guess.
You cannot enter fastboot commands through bluetooth... So, the only plausible reason will be that someone, somehow made an interface and unlocked the device..
P.S.
And this will be a very good information... I am waiting for so long for this to happen..
eltigre4jc said:
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am almost completely sure that the interface cable has to be built, upon those golden contacts.. If the original poster still has the watch or someone else, that has a broken watch., maybe can try to make an interface..
P.S. a link with another teardown, this time for Moto Sport http://imgur.com/a/yFb4s
eltigre4jc said:
Some more research done by me:
Maybe we can use some pogo pins (like those attached) to make contact on that golden contacts bands (numbered A5 -A6 etc.) . Now, @menuet found the 5V as A5, and the ground as A6. WE still have 3 more tries (A1, A2, A4) for the data+ and data- from the SUB scheme. I don't know if something will break if we don't guess from the first time the right arrangement, (and we switch data- with data+ ).
And we can make something to hold those pogo pins stabilized (see that sketch made in paint)
Maybe this will be helpful for someone with a broken watch or already disassembled watch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3965954&d=1481526286
These may in fact serve as the pogo pins found on the 1 gen watch.
stevemw said:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3965954&d=1481526286
These may in fact serve as the pogo pins found on the 1 gen watch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gosh, this is awkward. Well guys, i contacted Motorola and gave them pictures of my watch and they say I got a Prototype Watch.
My bootloader is already unlocked on this watch but there is very old user-build firmware installed. I would like to flash the latest one, but as i read this here, its not possible without an USB connection right?
Edit: my watch is also rooted! I debugged it with bluetooth and tried to shell it. I tried ls the /system dir which failed. But after i su'd it listed me the system directory and all files in it.
I removed the plastic ring from my watch so i am able to see the golden contacts now, and I am ready to try to create an interface if someone teaches me how to do that.
My aim is to flash a custom recovery to it like twrp. I noticed there is a moto 360 twrp recovery, so i guess it shouldnt be to hard to port this to the second edition right?
Edit: I am going to create an interface cable with that 4 pins..
Two pins I know, GND and 5V. The other two pins i will need to find out, but basically, if i found the correct ones and they are connected to the watch and the watch is in bootloader, and i do fastboot devices i should see the watch as fastboot device right? (To make sure the interface works ofc.)
I built an interface, but its not recognizing USB. It says unknown device, error while getting device descriptor or something like that. But I only get that device popping up in device manager when i am using pin A1 (no matter Data+ or data-). If i use A2 and a4 for example, then this device doesnt even pop up in device manager. So i guess A1 is for sure either data+ or data-
When it comes to driver stuff now i have no clue. I tried updating the driver and navigated to google usb driver located in android_sdk\extras\google but it said best fitting drivers were already installed...
So i got no clue what to do next now..
Yothri said:
I built an interface, but its not recognizing USB. It says unknown device, error while getting device descriptor or something like that. But I only get that device popping up in device manager when i am using pin A1 (no matter Data+ or data-). If i use A2 and a4 for example, then this device doesnt even pop up in device manager. So i guess A1 is for sure either data+ or data-
When it comes to driver stuff now i have no clue. I tried updating the driver and navigated to google usb driver located in android_sdk\extras\google but it said best fitting drivers were already installed...
So i got no clue what to do next now..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank for trying.. Now, can you, put a picture of the interface you built? And also, can you try to attach the watch through USB to a fresh system, that has no previously installed drivers?
Maybe you can look for drivers for the version one of the watch....
I have two Mi Boxes. Both have lousy WiFi reception. I finally decided to open one up and see if I could re-position the antenna or replace it. To my surprise, there was no antenna. I opened my other Mi Box and it didn't have an antenna either. There is a little plug for the antenna, but the antenna itself is missing.
The antenna plug is the same one found in most laptops and WiFi cards, variously called an IPX, IPEX, or U.FL plug. You can buy antennas with this plug on ebay or Amazon for about $2. They come as little flags you can stick down or little pcb boards which can have 5dbi or more gain.
I got a couple of 8dbi gain pcb antennas. The can be positioned inside the Mi Box case, but I drilled a small hole and ran them outside where they are clear of the electronics and big steel heatsink and can be aimed at the router. No soldering, just open the Mi Box, take out the four screws that hold the motherboard. Slowly pull off the motherboard which is stuck to the heatsink, and then plug in the antenna. Simple.
My WiFi download speed has almost tripled from less than 10mbs to almost 30mbs. I get 20mbs even through my VPN. I now can stream 1080 HD movies on Netflix without stuttering or buffering.
Spend $2 and 15 minutes work and you won't hate your Mi Box anymore.
Make sure the antenna will do 5ghz
I almost forgot, make sure you get an antenna that will work for both 2.4ghz and 5ghz.
Sound intressting ... maybe you upload a photo of the antenna ? wich type ?
Thanks in advance Dr Vega
Greetings Phil from Belgium
Pilsor said:
Sound intressting ... maybe you upload a photo of the antenna ? wich type ?
Thanks in advance Dr Vega
Greetings Phil from Belgium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Thanks for opening this up man!! Trying to make this thing last a bit longer, this will help. We will also have Oreo anyday now as more screen shots are being posted.
Could you show me the way to open the case, does it need heating or something else?
Opening the Mi Box case
hhai93 said:
Could you show me the way to open the case, does it need heating or something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it can be tough to open. There're no screws or anything, just the clips all around the edge. I started with a sharp knife to open a crack and then slid in a credit card and ran that around the edge to release the clips. One of those plastic thingies to open cell phones works even better than a credit card.
dr_vega said:
Yeah, it can be tough to open. There're no screws or anything, just the clips all around the edge. I started with a sharp knife to open a crack and then slid in a credit card and ran that around the edge to release the clips. One of those plastic thingies to open cell phones works even better than a credit card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Link the the antenna that you've bought please? I searched on ebay but there are many kinds of ipex connector
hhai93 said:
Link the the antenna that you've bought please? I searched on ebay but there are many kinds of ipex connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Something like this should work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4G-5G-5-...862018?hash=item3d60e89bc2:g:Zc8AAOSwAXZa2AJD
dr_vega said:
Something like this should work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4G-5G-5-...862018?hash=item3d60e89bc2:g:Zc8AAOSwAXZa2AJD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! Just bought one, will be arrived at the end of May :fingers-crossed:
dr_vega said:
I have two Mi Boxes. Both have lousy WiFi reception. I finally decided to open one up and see if I could re-position the antenna or replace it. To my surprise, there was no antenna. I opened my other Mi Box and it didn't have an antenna either. There is a little plug for the antenna, but the antenna itself is missing.
The antenna plug is the same one found in most laptops and WiFi cards, variously called an IPX, IPEX, or U.FL plug. You can buy antennas with this plug on ebay or Amazon for about $2. They come as little flags you can stick down or little pcb boards which can have 5dbi or more gain.
I got a couple of 8dbi gain pcb antennas. The can be positioned inside the Mi Box case, but I drilled a small hole and ran them outside where they are clear of the electronics and big steel heatsink and can be aimed at the router. No soldering, just open the Mi Box, take out the four screws that hold the motherboard. Slowly pull off the motherboard which is stuck to the heatsink, and then plug in the antenna. Simple.
My WiFi download speed has almost tripled from less than 10mbs to almost 30mbs. I get 20mbs even through my VPN. I now can stream 1080 HD movies on Netflix without stuttering or buffering.
Spend $2 and 15 minutes work and you won't hate your Mi Box anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
diruix said:
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That may be true, but IPEX worked for me. I bought a couple of the antennas in the picture. One was hard to press onto the connector and I used a needle nose pliers to apply pressure. The other one snapped on with just fingers.
diruix said:
Hi.
I have two MiBox and the connector is not the standard that is used for antennas. It is a Hirose MS-156C, usually used as a test point, so it is not possible to connect antennas with an IPEX connector.
Can you detail how you did it?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I confirm that the Ipex connector is compatible.
I tried to insert the antenna into the connector for 5 minutes pressing it with my fingers, but then I decided to use a screwdriver handle for this, I pushed harder, and I was able to connect the antenna.
Toliyn said:
I confirm that the Ipex connector is compatible.
I tried to insert the antenna into the connector for 5 minutes pressing it with my fingers, but then I decided to use a screwdriver handle for this, I pushed harder, and I was able to connect the antenna.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The most important question is "After you forced the connection, did you see a performance increase?" Hopefully, something more than placebo...
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Mr.BungIe said:
The most important question is "After you forced the connection, did you see a performance increase?" Hopefully, something more than placebo...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To begin with, I was unpleasantly surprised with the reception quality of the mi box.
I have a noname Chinese tv box with which there are enough problems, but none of them related with receiving a wi-fi signal.
When I turned on mi box for the first time without an external antenna connected, the device was able to connect to wi-fi and start downloading updates, but the online video playback and TV playback over ott playlist did not work. I even rebooted the mi box several times to make sure that the problem is not related with the updates.
Then I put the antenna all worked as expected.
So I think so. There is a noticeable difference when using an external antenna.
isn't there any android tool that mesure the wifi strength signal ?
If yes it would be nice to have some results before/after
but of course your feedback is very nice.
I had too issues, i fixed them by moving my wifi extender (my wifi router is at 1st floor and on the roof i have an extender to make sure that I have enought signal at both floor. but as the mibox whas having difficulties I moved the extender from one room to very close to the mibox) and since them streaming 1080p video is no more any issue.
But of course installing an antenna would be nice ... or maybe an ethernet usb hub ....
Indeed I may start looking at 4k movies end of the year, and plan to use the mibox (hoping that it will have enougth power)
Did anyone ever confirm if this is an antenna port or not
I just tested this out myself using the same aerial linked earlier, and I found it made no difference to signal strength or throughput. This was determined using the IP tools app and some file transfers.
In fact even though the connector seemed to be a good fit, I found that the middle pin wasn't actually making any contact. I verified this using one of the solder pads next to the connector which has a direct connection to the middle pin socket on the PCB.
I figured this may be why I saw no difference in signal so I cut the plug off the aerial and soldered the wires directly to the mibox and made sure the connections were good, and guess what - still no difference.
As I don't have anything to probe that connector with to see exactly what if anything is coming out I can't verify what it is supposed to do. But I wouldn't waste your time trying to connect an aerial to it.
Lemonato said:
I just tested this out myself using the same aerial linked earlier, and I found it made no difference to signal strength or throughput. This was determined using the IP tools app and some file transfers.
In fact even though the connector seemed to be a good fit, I found that the middle pin wasn't actually making any contact. I verified this using one of the solder pads next to the connector which has a direct connection to the middle pin socket on the PCB.
I figured this may be why I saw no difference in signal so I cut the plug off the aerial and soldered the wires directly to the mibox and made sure the connections were good, and guess what - still no difference.
As I don't have anything to probe that connector with to see exactly what if anything is coming out I can't verify what it is supposed to do. But I wouldn't waste your time trying to connect an aerial to it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did it too and "Lemonato" is right, there is no change on the wifi reception.
** sorry... don't know why the pics is not showing
anyone tried using this mod?
https://youtu.be/Nk-nj_BwoBE?t=5m30s