Does anyone have a dust plug for their Pixel 6 that has the correct radius on the cap? If so, could you post a link plz
Is this what you are looking for? https://amzn.to/3q6hz55
Yeah. It looks like there is a radius on the ends that is designed to match the phone so it doesn't look a weird n ****.
You can also get those magnetic USB C charging adapters that protect your USB C port and still allows charging without taking it off.
OuHiroshi said:
You can also get those magnetic USB C charging adapters that protect your USB C port and still allows charging without taking it off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Except that the Pixel won't charge with (all of?) them.
I have great ones, with high speed + data transfer etc., they work fine with my OP7 and Samsung tablet (and even my e-cigs as well as PC mouse + keyboard) but the P6 simply refuses to recognize any charging current coming through them
Related
I made a USB dongle that plugs into the USB port on the touchpad and provides a powered female USB-A port. It is basically a portable USB charger/battery with an OTG cable soldered to the USB port. Attached is a quick pdf showing the process. It's much smaller and more portable than using a y-cable and powered hub or battery pack.
The charger is $13 on Amazon with free prime shipping and OTG cables around $2 on ebay.
It's nice because it's small and I can secure it to the my case with a rubber band, providing a quick connection to a keyboard/mouse or usb flash drive. The particular charger charges via any powered USB port with a provided cable.
This is the battery pack I ordered, note the picture on the amazon page is not 100% accurate:
http://www.amazon.com/T-Mobile-Port..._1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1325984238&sr=1-1
This is the cable I purchased, there are cheaper ones, but they ship from China:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-O...ccessories&hash=item1e69fbb3c5#ht_1336wt_1398
Would that be powerful enough to power external portable hard drive like WD Passport?
gedas5 said:
Would that be powerful enough to power external portable hard drive like WD Passport?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, I don't have the power specs on the battery pack. If I come across a USB-powered hard drive, I'll test it.
scarletwahoo said:
I made a USB dongle that plugs into the USB port on the touchpad and provides a powered female USB-A port. It is basically a portable USB charger/battery with an OTG cable soldered to the USB port. Attached is a quick pdf showing the process. It's much smaller and more portable than using a y-cable and powered hub or battery pack.
The charger is $13 on Amazon with free prime shipping and OTG cables around $2 on ebay.
It's nice because it's small and I can secure it to the my case with a rubber band, providing a quick connection to a keyboard/mouse or usb flash drive. The particular charger charges via any powered USB port with a provided cable.
This is the battery pack I ordered, note the picture on the amazon page is not 100% accurate:
http://www.amazon.com/T-Mobile-Port..._1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1325984238&sr=1-1
This is the cable I purchased, there are cheaper ones, but they ship from China:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-O...ccessories&hash=item1e69fbb3c5#ht_1336wt_1398
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that looks nice.. but you re saying that its plug and play?..
you dont have to mount/unmount?
why didnt you get one w/ more usb ports?
your pics are clear.
i wonder how easy it is to do the battery hub like yours but w/ 4 usb ports
Nicely done, very good solution and tutorial. again excellent!!!!
amkaos said:
that looks nice.. but you re saying that its plug and play?..
you dont have to mount/unmount?
why didnt you get one w/ more usb ports?
your pics are clear.
i wonder how easy it is to do the battery hub like yours but w/ 4 usb ports
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/Solar-Powered-Battery-Charger-Adapter/dp/B006DVMW92
This hub has 4 ports, a battery plus solar charging. That said, if I buy it I'll probably just plug it directly into the OTG cable rather than solder them together. Then again my soldering can be a little rough.
- Sent from a Prime terminal using a friends account
So can we only use the Micro Usb OTG host to connect to a USB drive/keyboard?
tpcm said:
So can we only use the Micro Usb OTG host to connect to a USB drive/keyboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes plus 10char
Deserves sticky, love mods like this even if not always practical.
Cant believe they didnt give the touchpad a powered usb host. I guess they figured people would have issues with not enough power or drain the battery too quick with it.
So I think when I have some spare time I may mod your mod and show how to make a powered usb host that plugs into the wall charger so when your "docking" somewhere to charge you can hook up a keyboard and use it without restriction and even be charging the touchpad at the same time.
Probably don't even need to be too creative a proper Y cable may do the trick out the gate. Just to track one down.
Probably a stupid question, but it wouldn't be my first one...
Could you simply use a USB male-to-male cable to go between the battery pack and the OTG cable? Eliminate the soldering that way?
Or am I missing something?
I found a cable that I think will work perfectly for my idea of doing this from the charger instead of from battery: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/usb-fe...gb-tf-card-card-reader-kit-for-xtc-clip-82289
You can do it much cheaper with adapters and a regular y adapter though, and you may want to do so, so that you can have a longer cable from the charger to the y split, but yeah I will try this out sometime soon and let you know how it works.
The charger probably gives enough power to easily run things like a external HDD and such while the battery pack may not.
@Vicious ... couldn't that possibly put too much power to a USB device? Just saying since it is probably meant to be hooked up to a regular USB 5v port and (I don't know the specifics but) the touchpad USB power adapter has a high AMP output (might be talking sht here).
Nothing to worry about a device only "pulls" the amperage it needs so you can have extra with no harm to the device. It is the voltage that needs to match and usb is standard 5v.
Having too little amperage can actually cause a device harm due to malfunction, like a head crashing on a 2.5" hdd during use or a thumb drive failing to flash properly corrupting a sector.
I feel anybody that uses the touchpad in a docked setting that wants to use a keyboard may very well make use of my idea, that I of course got from the OP's idea.
I'll part it out for the cheapest way to make it without any cutting/soldering and test it soon enough.
mountaindewmi said:
@Vicious ... couldn't that possibly put too much power to a USB device? Just saying since it is probably meant to be hooked up to a regular USB 5v port and (I don't know the specifics but) the touchpad USB power adapter has a high AMP output (might be talking sht here).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That cable will work fine. I wasn't doing anything special, only eliminating the y-cable. I mainly wanted a small form factor way of adding a USB port to my case for portability. Now I can put a movie on a usb drive and watch it on the go.
You generally don't have to worry about using a supply that is to powerful. As long as the voltage output is 5 V, the device will only draw a certain current and consume the corresponding amount of power. The rating on a constant voltage supply is simply the maximum current it can provide, the amount it provides depends on the properties of the device.
Say you have a device, it states it operates at 5 V and draws 100 mA of current. That means the impedance of the device is R = V / I = 50 ohms. So if you use a 5 V supply rated to at least 100 mA, the device will only draw 100 mA. The supply can be rated for 100 mA or 1000 amps, it does not matter. (Although you wouldn't want to use 1000 A source as if something breaks or shorts it can draw a higher current)
Wikipedia "ohms law" if you are not familiar.
I tried to do this but can't get it to work, the touchpad shows the charging battery icon only it's not charging, and running dmesg it say source=charger mA=100 and usb otg exited low power mode and then right after says it entered low power mode... Not sure what the issue is...
edit: I'm thinking it may be my soldering work, gonna give it another pass...
joenathane said:
I tried to do this but can't get it to work, the touchpad shows the charging battery icon only it's not charging, and running dmesg it say source=charger mA=100 and usb otg exited low power mode and then right after says it entered low power mode... Not sure what the issue is...
edit: I'm thinking it may be my soldering work, gonna give it another pass...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may have the two data pins shorted together. To the best of my knowledge, this tells the touchpad to go into charging mode. The touchpad charger does this, because in order to charge, it must draw more power than USB ports are designed to provide.
You need to remove the two resistors circled in the PDF. These keep the data pins shorted together as well.
This is a really great idea I think I might try it and your tut is very well explained thanks for taking the time out to put it all together
Thanks
Mouse works fine, keyboard hasn't been tried yet. How do you access a flash drive through this? What are the steps?
If you just cut out the resistors in the battery hub, could you just use the TP's regular cable to plug into one of the ports on the hub?
tpcm said:
Mouse works fine, keyboard hasn't been tried yet. How do you access a flash drive through this? What are the steps?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stick mount works great
Sent from my CM9 TouchPad
I didn't see a thread about this yet so I thought I'd make one for us to relay our experiences with different micro USB 3.0 B cables, our Galaxy Note 3 phones, and the various cases we may have tried them with.
First off, the stock Samsung cable is the smallest and lowest-profile microUSB 3.0 B cable I've seen yet, which is important because the bulkier ones are just more prominent protrusions begging to get bents or broken, damaging the connected device with it. The problem is that all the Note 3 cases act like it's a proprietary cable and they only need to design around it instead of aiming to fit a wide variety of standard cables. So far mine has not received any excessive force from any cable, but it's a concern I always have with many USB devices (USB drive in a notebook, for example). I have found that even with the stock cable the port in the phone itself frequently needs to be blown out. At least three times I have found my phone plugged in and not charging with a connection being very hard to achieve and maintain (momentarily connects when tweaked) until I blow in the port (then it's rock-solid for another week+). My port has never been forced or damaged and it does it with every cable I try until I blow, so I know that we are dealing with contamination or oxidation. The first time was before it had ever had any other cable used with it.
Next up: the Amazon Basics Premium cable.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-...8&qid=1386737410&sr=8-4&keywords=USB3.0+Micro
My first one was DOA and didn't work at all unless you held it at a strange angle. The replacement worked as reliably as the original but it is too thick and bulky. I often have trouble finding a place and orientation to lay my phone when using it that doesn't put too much stress on the cable/connectors. It is NOT the kind of cable you want to carry around in your pocket or use in the car. I don't even like using it with my laptop so it's going to be my desktop charge and transfer cable exclusively. Even the connectors are bulky. Luckily, the rubber-like material around the port in my Slim Armor case flexes enough that it fits fine. Same for the Unicorn Beetle Sup Case. I still need to try my Bear Motion/Poetic bumper case and the slim Caseology case.
Even when not using USB3's faster transfer and charging features, I still prefer using it over a microUSB 2.0 B cable because it seems safer to spread the load over a bigger connector if it gets accidentally tweaked. I've repaired enough traditional microUSB 2.0 B connectors on phone PCBs and I do not want to risk damaging an MHL 3.0 version! It seems to me that a right-angle connector would be safer as it would not protrude away from the device and the cable has the chance to run along the device's exterior structure until it is far enough away to absorb and relieve most tension that would move it independently from the device. For this reason I intend to get a right-angle mUSB3 cablemy notebook that I often use in bed. So far the only one I have found is here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141133546501?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
I missed the auction but I'm prowling for another and I will report my experience here.
I also wonder if this cable can charge faster from a typical dual-port car charger:
http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-dual...&qid=1386737410&sr=8-13&keywords=USB3.0+Micro
I've also ordered a couple TYLT Vu wireless charging stands and the official Samsung wireless charging back to minimize my use of the port, so it looks like I'm switching to the bumper case (only one that fits the official cover). I should get a dust cover/plug for the port so that I won't have to blow it out when I do finally use it.
Another strange issue I had even with the stock cable was that it would disconnect and reconnect in USB 2.0 mode almost as soon as I enabled USB 3.0 mode and started transferring. Possibly important circumstances: I was trying to rip some 1080p video samples to check out on my first 1080p phone so I started ripping a couple BD movies to my Alienware M11x r3 (AnyDVD + Handbrake). 1080p files are large, so I figured it was as good a time as any to try to get slightly faster transfer speeds with USB3. This notebook has no optical drive so I made the rips using an external USB-powered BD drive plugged into the other USB3.0 port. It was a slimline EIDE drive in a USB2.0 enclosure, so there was a mix of USB2.0 and 3.0 devices connected to the two USB3.0 ports. When the first rip finished I started the second rip and then enabled USB3.0 on the phone to start transferring the first rip. After the problem repeated itself I tried changing cables and the problem remained. It worked fine when I tried again with only the phone connected. If that's expected behavior with a mix of 2.0 and 3.0 devices then I would have expected it to happen immediately instead of waiting until after I started a file transfer. Edit: It happened again this morning but I now know it happens even in USB2.0 mode. The BD drive was ripping while connected to the PC's native USB2.0 port and the phone was connected to one of the two USB 3.0 ports. It disconnected as soon as I started the transfer in USB3.0 mode so I restarted in 2.0 mode and it did the same thing. I had to wait for the encode to finish, so it looks like it has something to do with the MTP connection not being stable while the CPU is busy. Stupid.
I finally tried the Amazon Basics Premium micro USB 3.0 cable with the Bear Motion / Poetic bumper case and it can be made to fit. Unlike the others, you can't just push it in and expect the materials to flex enough to allow it. You have to work it in or else the material gets between the plug and the phone and prevents full insertion. I don't think it matters but I am using the official Samsung wireless charge cover battery door, which is why I switched back to the bumper case.
Firstly, whats the correct term? Is it a magnetic port/plug/connector????
Anyway Main question: What can it do?
Can it be used for connection to laptop for file transfers etc????
If yes to that, what about MHL (think thats right, the micro usb - hdmi)?
Just wanna keep them little doors shut at all times, if it cant do data then that doors gonna get opened a lot and probably damaged rather quickly
numskull said:
Firstly, whats the correct term? Is it a magnetic port/plug/connector????
Anyway Main question: What can it do?
Can it be used for connection to laptop for file transfers etc????
If yes to that, what about MHL (think thats right, the micro usb - hdmi)?
Just wanna keep them little doors shut at all times, if it cant do data then that doors gonna get opened a lot and probably damaged rather quickly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It connects to the magnetic dock. Yup, you can do file transfer between laptop and phone WITH the dock.
There's also a wi-fi dock by Sony, with which your phone charges and you can also transfer files via wifi while doing so.
KyleSforza said:
It connects to the magnetic dock. Yup, you can do file transfer between laptop and phone WITH the dock.
There's also a wi-fi dock by Sony, with which your phone charges and you can also transfer files via wifi while doing so.
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Click to collapse
Pretty sure the Magnetic Dock only charges the phone.. To make use of the magnetic charging port on the phone, you can either get Sony's official DK36 magnetic charging dock, or you can get an after market magnetic charging cable... But you can never transfer data out of the magnetic port - it can only be used for charging.
The only way to get data from a physical cable out of the phone is via the microUSB port on the phone which is covered by the big flap. This will also charge the phone at the same time.
invision1 said:
Pretty sure the Magnetic Dock only charges the phone.. To make use of the magnetic charging port on the phone, you can either get Sony's official DK36 magnetic charging dock, or you can get an after market magnetic charging cable... But you can never transfer data out of the magnetic port - it can only be used for charging.
The only way to get data from a physical cable out of the phone is via the microUSB port on the phone which is covered by the big flap. This will also charge the phone at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That leads me to the question (just curious): Can you connect the micro USB and the magnetic charging port at the same time?
illphone said:
That leads me to the question (just curious): Can you connect the micro USB and the magnetic charging port at the same time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not too sure on that one. I suppose if you wanted to charge the phone as fast as possible by using the dock and you wanted to do file transfers at the same time by using the USB port.
But i'm not too sure what would happen if you use both the magnetic port and the microUSB port on the phone at the same time.. You'd certainly hope that the phone wont explode.. I can only assume the phone will only let one one source [ie: the Micro USB port or the Magnetic Port] charge the battery at any given time. But i have no idea : )
cheers guys, thats a shame. i suppose it will help with the lifespan of the doors but woulda been a hell of a lot more use if it could transfer data...... oh well lets hope sony have that sorted by the time the z6 comes out (at the rate of one every 6 months thatll be my upgrade in 2 years) or that in that time they manage to make an open waterproof micro usb socket
numskull said:
cheers guys, thats a shame. i suppose it will help with the lifespan of the doors but woulda been a hell of a lot more use if it could transfer data...... oh well lets hope sony have that sorted by the time the z6 comes out (at the rate of one every 6 months thatll be my upgrade in 2 years) or that in that time they manage to make an open waterproof micro usb socket
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can check out wireless (WiFi) transfer apps. I know AirDroid is a popular one:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sand.airdroid
It has pretty amazing capabilities. Maybe it will be good enough for you so you won't even have to use the USB cable very often...
JMonkeYJ said:
You can check out wireless (WiFi) transfer apps. I know AirDroid is a popular one:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sand.airdroid
It has pretty amazing capabilities. Maybe it will be good enough for you so you won't even have to use the USB cable very often...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i suppose thats an option, i tried them before on my note, but they werent that good, took forever..... maybe theyve improved somewhat by now
hi guys
when i plug in the charging cable to my s9+, the cable can go a bit up and down inside the port
is it the same on your devices? is this normal? if yes, how much movement is considered acceptable? my phone is charging normally and the movement doesn't seem to affect it in any way
i mean, it cannot fit super-tight and not move at all, right?
there isn't any dirt/lint inside the port since the phone is only one month old
any reply is appreciated!
Same here. But sometimes the phone would not detect the cable. However, I'm using cheap Chinese cables. Worst case scenario, at least we have wireless charging
blckb3ard said:
Same here. But sometimes the phone would not detect the cable. However, I'm using cheap Chinese cables. Worst case scenario, at least we have wireless charging
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why aren't you using the cable that came with the phone? did it break or something? is it working normally when you use the original cable?
how much of a force is needed to make the usb port wiggle when you drop it while plugged in?
I tried to hook up a game controller via the OTG adapter and it appears to not send any power out from it. Even with a USB thumb drive and other USB C adapters, nothing seems to work. Has anyone else noticed this? You can transfer data via the cable just fine, but I find it strange it doesn't send any power through the plug.
Have you tried connecting it the other way round?
tomixnscale89 said:
I tried to hook up a game controller via the OTG adapter and it appears to not send any power out from it. Even with a USB thumb drive and other USB C adapters, nothing seems to work. Has anyone else noticed this? You can transfer data via the cable just fine, but I find it strange it doesn't send any power through the plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I noticed the same thing. I believe it's because once it comes out the other side with the 5-pin adapter, it is then reduced to the old micro-usb specification, which uses 5 wires. True USB-C connection has like 20 or 24 pins. I was able to get a couple very basic OTG of things to work, like a mouse and a thumb drive. BUT HERE IS THE CATCH - The mag connector has 5 pins, reduced from 20-some on the C connection.. so true USB-C connection is no longer possible once you get on the other side of the connector. So the trick is to NOT use a USB-C OTG when it's in the case with magnetic adapter. You must use a Micro USB OTG with a Micro-to-C adapter attached to that. Even so, not everything worked just by sticking on the Micro-to-C adapter.. Mouse and a thumb drive worked, but my ethernet adapter and VGA/HML/HDMI adapters did not. Out of the case, I can use my USB-C to HDMI cable to display on my TV. But same cord does not work with the magnetic adapter with the case. It is simply not possible because the reduction of contact pins from phone to case to magnet.. One more thing to consider, if you're trying to do anything other than charging, make sure the magnet is on the right way.. there's a little logo it should be in the front.
If I can come across a spare or broken Dual Screen case, I'd be curious to take it apart and see if it would be possible to rig it up with a better plug for the case.. find which wires go to the workings of the DS and leave them intact, but then try to replace the magnetic pins with a female C plug that has all the contacts intact still..
Seymour_Asses said:
I noticed the same thing. I believe it's because once it comes out the other side with the 5-pin adapter, it is then reduced to the old micro-usb specification, which uses 5 wires. True USB-C connection has like 20 or 24 pins. I was able to get a couple very basic OTG of things to work, like a mouse and a thumb drive. BUT HERE IS THE CATCH - The mag connector has 5 pins, reduced from 20-some on the C connection.. so true USB-C connection is no longer possible once you get on the other side of the connector. So the trick is to NOT use a USB-C OTG when it's in the case with magnetic adapter. You must use a Micro USB OTG with a Micro-to-C adapter attached to that. Even so, not everything worked just by sticking on the Micro-to-C adapter.. Mouse and a thumb drive worked, but my ethernet adapter and VGA/HML/HDMI adapters did not. Out of the case, I can use my USB-C to HDMI cable to display on my TV. But same cord does not work with the magnetic adapter with the case. It is simply not possible because the reduction of contact pins from phone to case to magnet.. One more thing to consider, if you're trying to do anything other than charging, make sure the magnet is on the right way.. there's a little logo it should be in the front.
If I can come across a spare or broken Dual Screen case, I'd be curious to take it apart and see if it would be possible to rig it up with a better plug for the case.. find which wires go to the workings of the DS and leave them intact, but then try to replace the magnetic pins with a female C plug that has all the contacts intact still..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you @Seymour_Asses ! I saw here https://twitter.com/konic0s/status/1202966945693220865 that LG G8X supports USB-C to HDMI adapters but I didn't know if it also worked with the Dual Screen case but now I know it doesn't, thanks for the information, very helpful ! :good:
BTW I think that when you connect the Dual Screen case to the G8X it uses the dedicated USB-C high speed pins of the G8X for video-out so these pins are not available anymore for other HDMI out, I'm not sure about it and don't have any proofs but it seems you are right about not enough pins on the mag connector.
If i remember correctly, the manual states that most USB-C functions wont work though the dual screen case. I think there was some speculation that its due to most of that bandwidth being used for the second screen.
Quite simple: the Mag USB-C adapter is for charging only. It drives me mad as i have a professional USB-C headphone that I use for conferencing.
But I understand the reason: when in dual screen, the USB-C data connection is in use dor the second screen, enabling the USB-C connection beyond that requires a hub to be built in the case "before" the DS connection (so it wont work building it in the dongle itself).
I wish LG went with a Pogo connector on the bottom or on the side to activate the DS case. This would have made the chin slimmer and freed up the USB-C port.
Anyway, it is what it is now, and i will not trade my LG G8x DS for anything at the moment... Until maybe that Surface Duo phone for which I might need to sell a vital organ ?